Surfing The World
Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 8 September, 2006 : - - It?s 1962 and head high waves are peeling from the outside section at Malibu through to the beach. The line-up is choked with new Velzy?s and Hobies fresh from the factory. After Gidget everyone wants a piece of the action. Just up the coast in the seclusion of the Hollister Ranch, a surfer is swivelling and dropping down the face of a wave, carving an arcing bottom turn, rail buried deep, long curved fin straining under the torque. The most progressive waverider on the coastline, George Greenough, shuns the chaos of the ?best wave? in California for the glorious isolation of these kelp-filled line-ups. To him this is perfection, this is the best wave. The third book in the highly acclaimed Footprint Surf Series, Surfing the World by Chris Nelson and Demi Taylor is a dream trip around the planet's best 80 waves. In more than 300 pages packed with beautiful photography from surfing?s leading lensmen, this dreamers guide explores not just the waves and how they work, but also the personalities that have taken them on and the breaks' often intriguing histories. Every surfer can point to a moment when we rode/found/saw that special wave. But how would you go about compiling a list of the best waves in the world? There are so many personal preferences and references that go into deciding whether a break is good or not. Size, consistency, left or right, reef or sandbank, tropical or cold, barrelling or walling, busy or quiet, long or short, sharky or safe, a voyage away or right on your door step? the list is endless.